A Bar with Food, but don't call it Bar Food
Some things are just meant for each other – think roasted beets and goat cheese, fresh mozzarella on a crispy pizza or even prosecco and me. While all three of these simply perfect pairs were present and accounted for last weekend at Onieals in Soho, what is really remarkable is the unlikely pairing of a gourmet restaurant inside a neighborhood pub. Although, with a gastronomic experience executed as successfully as my meal at Onieals, it’s no surprise I plan to become as permanent a fixture there as the menu items themselves.
After entering Onieals through the spacious lounge section, we were seated in the intimate dining room; the crowd would suggest that a refined palette is something developed by a sophisticated clientele. Fitting into the scene was easy with a three-olive martini in hand and an elegantly-plated roasted beet and warmed goat cheese salad before me. The candied spiced pecans and dried cherry dressing introduced a wide breadth of complex flavors that stood up nicely to the tang of the goat cheese. The subsequent course (obviously) entailed a bottle of prosecco and an order of mussels in a light white wine sauce, which were served with two slices of warm crusty bread. Make no mistake; this was me in my happy place.
Scallop Perfection
After consulting with the host (who happened to be as fabulous and bubbly as my prosecco in hand), the entrée selection was complete. The Snapper special of the day was served in a broth of coconut milk with hints of lemon grass, which lent its essence to not only the fish filet, but also several clams and a selection of mushrooms. The light sear on the snapper was as expertly cooked as the bok choy, which was pure al dente perfection. Not that it had anything on the utterly amazing pan seared fresh scallops; just remembering the buttery scallops sitting on top of a dish of asparagus-studded creamy risotto might warrant wearing a bib. The addition of a light carrot ginger sauce sprinkled with chive is a bit too much to imagine on an empty stomach.
Whether you’re looking for a trendy weekend dining destination or an unorthodox gourmet resto, Onieals has your number. Sure, it’s a bar, with food – but don’t even think about calling it bar food. I’ll see you there next time!